In Lynn Nottage’s Intimate Apparel, now playing at the Donmar Warehouse, threads of longing, resilience, and heartbreak are stitched into a tapestry of theatrical brilliance. Under the deft direction of Lynette Linton, this production doesn’t just wear its heart on its sleeve—it embroiders it into every seam.
Set in 1905 New York, Intimate Apparel follows Esther, a Black seamstress who crafts delicate lingerie for women across class and racial divides. As she dreams of opening her own beauty salon, a correspondence with a mysterious suitor offers the promise of love—but also threatens to unravel the quiet independence she has so carefully stitched together.
Samira Wiley delivers a tour de force performance, capturing Esther’s childlike naivety and steely resolve with astonishing depth. Her portrayal is so textured, it feels hand-stitched—each moment carefully sewn with emotional precision.
Nicola Hughes is superb as Mrs Dickson, her comic timing razor-sharp and her presence grounding. Kadiff Kirwan gives a multi-layered, compelling performance as George, whose charm and complexity unfold with subtle tension. Alex Waldmann is captivating as Mr Marks, his portrayal of restrained affection and spiritual conflict deeply moving.
The haunting presence of Faith Omole as Mayme adds a poignant counterpoint to Esther’s journey, while Claudia Jolly as Mrs Van Buren offers a brittle elegance, her fragility contrasting beautifully with Esther’s grounded strength.
Linton’s direction is superbly paced, with the second act tighter than the first, leaving the audience breathless. The production’s rhythm never falters, and the emotional stakes rise as each scene unfolds. Alex Berry’s set and costume design evokes the era with understated grace, while Jai Morjaria’s lighting and George Dennis’s sound design add texture and atmosphere.
This is storytelling at its finest. Intimate Apparel is a beautifully woven triumph; Nottage’s script is rich with nuance and compassion, and the Donmar’s production honours it with grace and intelligence. The ensemble cast, under Linton’s sensitive guidance, delivers performances that are deeply felt and beautifully judged.
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